Classic Annapurna Circuit trek with Nepal Hiking Team – 1st to 22nd November. 17 day trek visiting Jagat, Dharapani, Chame, Pisang, Manang, Yak Kharka, Thorong Phedi, Thorong La Pass, Muktinath, Tatopani, Shikha, Tadapani, Ghandruk & Pokhara.
This was my 3rd time visiting Nepal and my first trip overseas for 7 years. The last time I was in Nepal was in 1999. I guess I was keen to see if I could still physically handle trekking at high altitudes. Give it a go while I still can sort of mentality.
Kathmandu
I arrived in Kathmandu during Tihar (Deepawali), which is a 5 day spiritual and cultural Hindu festival of lights celebration. I had four full days in Kathmandu before the trek commenced so I did lots of walking around Kathmandu visiting Swayambhunath & Boudha stupas, Patan & Bhaktapur. One day I chalked up 33,000 steps.
I stayed at the Woodapple Hotel & Spa, an excellent hotel in a quiet location, close to Thamel, friendly & helpful staff with great views from the rooftop restaurant. As part of the Festival of Lights celebration, many of the buildings were covered in lights.Festival celebrations in Kathmandu Darbar SquareI wasn’t intending to visit Kathmandu Darbar Square, I accidently ended up there by following & photographing the festival of light processions.Now I need to find my way to Swayambhunath stupa. It is very easy to get lost in Kathmandu.Shree Jagat Prakash Buddhist monastery, located near Swayambhunath stupaSwayambhunath stupa, also known as the Monkey temple. In case you’re wondering… there are 365 steps.The temple is located west of Kathmandu city. It would have amazing views of the city, however, it is almost always hazy.I managed to capture this young monkey eating a Marigold flower. They are not easy to photograph as they are constantly on the move. Don’t get too close to them. I saw a young boy attacked by a monkey as the father was trying to take a photo with his phone. No injuries but it gave the boy a fright.Two young ladies spin the prayer wheels (always in a clockwise direction) in the quest to accumulate wisdom and good karma.Patan Durbar Square, viewed from a rooftop restaurant. I was lucky to get a place on the top level as there were only 6 tables.The 2015 magnitude 7.8 earthquake caused considerable damage to Patan Durbar Square. Most of the damage has since been repaired.Elephant statues guarding the Vishwanath temple – Patan Durbar SquareThe Golden Temple (Hiraṇyavarṇa Mahāvihāra) – Patan. The temple was built in 1409 and is a Newari Buddhist monastery. The name “golden temple” came about through tourism and a shortening of its translation more than it actually being made of pure gold. Most of the temple is actually polished gilt copper which gives it a fantastic golden shine.Boudha Stupa, also known as Boudhanath is one of the largest and most significant Buddhist monuments in the world. The stupa dates from 600AD and was built by a Tibetan king. I managed to get this photo of the Stupa just before it started raining. The Stupa is surrounded by shops and cafes so I just chilled out with a bit of shopping and a pot of White Prakash tea.View of Kathmandu from the Woodapple rooftop restaurant the morning after the rain, which temporarily removed the hazy skyline that normally hangs around Kathmandu valley.Day trip to the ancient city of Bhaktapur, located 14km from Kathmandu. I caught a local bus which took about an hour as it makes numerous stops along the way.Stone Lions in the ancient city of Bhaktapur. Bhaktapur’s Durbar Square is one of three royal squares located in Nepal’s Kathmandu Valley. It was built in the 13th century by Jayasithi Malla and functioned as the royal palace complex of the Hindu Malla Dynasty (1200-1769).The terracotta temple of Silu Mahadeva. Based on its architecture it is thought to be from the 17th century or earlier. It was destroyed (above the base) in the earthquake of 1934 and replaced with a small dome like structure. It was destroyed again in the more recent 2015 earthquake and restored to its original pre-1934 form. That explains why it looks brand new.Taumadhi Square, Bhaktapur, viewed from the 3rd floor of the Himalayan Java Coffee restaurant. Nyatapola temple is the tallest pagoda style temple in Nepal. The temple was commissioned by King Bhupatindra Malla, the construction of which lasted for six months from December 1701 to July 1702.Nyatapola temple. The stone statues are said to be the guardians of the Goddess Shiddhi Laxmi statue (located inside the temple). The guardians depict images of Wrestlers, Elephants, Lions, Griffins, and two Goddesses named Sighini and Baghini respectively.Pottery SquareSuperb lunch at De Arena restaurant, in the back streets of Dattatraya Square, Bhaktapur. I had a Newari dish, chicken samyebaji set, delicious but spicy hot.
Kathmandu (1,355m) to Jagat (1,100m)
After a 6 hour drive from Kathmandu, we changed vehicles at Beshisahar (photo above). Time for a cup of masala tea while we waited for the 4WD to arrive. The drive to Jagat in the 4WD was very rough, like being in a washing machine.Our guest house at Jagat. Many of the guest houses are painted in bright colours and adorned with marigold flowers. Note the narrow metal spiral staircase to get to the upper floors. I was the only person in my group so it was like a private trek.
Jagat (1,100m) to Dharapani (1,960m)
The first day of trekking commences. There were some steep sections on the trail and we walked for over 6 hours, so it was a tough first day of trekking. I remember thinking, as I was gasping for breath, did I really sign up for this… what was I thinking?View of the village of Taal as we trek up the path heading towards Dharapani.You will see excavators everywhere in Nepal. It is a constant battle with nature to keep the roads open.A 4WD rolled over and blocked the road so an excavator was used to relocate it. This attracted a huge amount of attention, even the police women who was telling us to move back was taking photos.
Dharapani (1,960m) to Chame (2,630m)
We passed through the small picturesque town of Timang (2,650m)Manaslu South (8,163m) on the left with Himlung Himal (7,126m) on the right, viewed from the town of Timang.We stopped for lunch at Syarku, great spot, so quiet and surrounded by amazing viewsWelcome to Chame. It was quite a big town that had a proper cafe, a bank, a motor mechanic and even a snooker & pool hall. We stayed at the popular Hotel Eagle Eye.
Chame (2,630m) to Pisang (3,300m)
Early morning view of Lamjung Himal (6,983m) from ChameA moderate 15km walk today, which took about 5 hoursWe stopped for lunch at a rooftop restaurant (pictured) at a lovely town called Dhikur PokhariStill walking along dirt roads for some sections of the trail. I was glad I brought a covid style N95 mask for the dust when a vehicle went past, which thankfully wasn’t that often. Most of the time it was just motor bikes.Lovely view from my room at Upper Pisang. Still a couple of hours of light left so time to visit the monastery that is situated above the village. Yes, more steps.Gompa style Buddhist monastery at Upper Pisang. The word “gompa” is Tibetan for “meditation place”. The monastery was built by the local community and it is used a a sacred Buddhist spiritual compound. Gompas are like living Buddhist universities that preserve Tibetan culture and identity.
Pisang (3,300m) to Manang (3,570m)
Morning view of Annapurna II from my room in Upper Pisang. Annapurna II is the second-highest mountain of the Annapurna range at 7,937m. Unfortunately, you can’t always capture the mountains in the best light as you arrive late in the day and leave early the next morning. Ideally, you would have two nights at each place. The best time to photograph mountains is in the morning as clouds tend to develop around lunch time.The Green Lake located near Pisang. Perfect conditions to capture the reflection on the lake.Annapurna II rangeTaking a break at the small town of Ghyaru (3,730m) after a steep & arduous climb. Annapurna III in the background.One of the longer walks today, almost 20km, which took about 8 hours, 8am to 4pm (including a lunch stop). It was steep climbing in the morning but after lunch we walked mostly along the valley so the afternoon was a lot easier, but still tiring.Scenic view of the township of Ngawal (3,650m)We had lunch at this guesthouse in NgawalLate afternoon photo of Annapurna III as we walk along the valley approaching Manang
Manang (3,570m)
We had two nights at Manang to allow for an acclimatisation dayLots of trekking excursions available from Manang. If you had the time, you could spend a week here exploring the region.Gangapurna (7,455m)Gangapurna Lake. We spent a few hours walking up to the green lake and beyond for great views of Gangapurna, the glacier, Manang and the surrounding mountains.Great views of Manang and the valleyLooking back along the valley that we trekked along the previous dayWe reached an altitude of 3,855m on this excursionA dzo is a hybrid animal that is a cross between a yak and a domestic cowPrayer wheels at Manang
Manang (3,570m) to Yak Kharka (4,110m)
Another glorious sunny day as we depart Manang – GangapurnaTilicho Peak (7,134m)Northern side of GangapurnaThis part of the trail was great, not many steps or steep sectionsA fairly easy walk today, only 10km, almost 4 hours. No issues with the high altitude, you would know by now whether you had any issues acclimatising. So it’s looking good for the climb over the Thorong La Pass (5,416m).My accommodation at Yak Kharka. I had a hot shower at this guesthouse, which cost R2000. It was the only hot shower I had during the whole trek. The rest of the time I just used a cloth with cold water & soap. It was a very cold night at Yak Kharka, even the guest house water pipes froze up.
Yak Kharka (4,110m) to Thorong Phedi (4,450m)
Another shorter walk today, only 7km which took 3 hours & 20 minsNo suspension bridge for this river crossingAt last we arrive at the lower base camp of Thorong Phedi. Just when I thought the trekking was finished for the day, my guide said our guesthouse is further up the hill (upper left of photo). You’re joking, right ? Unfortunately not.Looking down on the lower base camp of Thorong Phedi from our hotel on the hillView of the path behind our hotel that leads up to the pass. An early start tomorrow morning for the high altitude climb up to the Thorong La Pass. We got up at 3:30am and left the hotel around 4:15am in the dark with our head lamps on. Needless to say, not a great night’s sleep before the ascent.
Thorong La Pass (5,416m)
I made it. Celebrating my successful ascent to the Thorang La Pass (5,416m) with Sandesh (porter) & Prajwal (guide). My fingers were almost frozen at the pass. I could hardly hold my camera and my water bottle was partially iced up – Thorong La Pass.Thorong La PassOnce over the pass it’s a long steep walk of 3 hours to MukinathThe township of Mukinath (3,800m). We visited the Hindu temple before walking down lots of steps to the town and finally arriving at our hotel. Tough day, we travelled 14km and it took me 9 & 1/2 hours. Both knees were hurting and my feet were quite sore. People were starring at me as we walked through Mukinath to our hotel as I couldn’t walk straight, my legs were like jelly. Luckily I had the walking poles to keep me upright.
Tatopani (1,190m)
We caught a bus from Mukinath to Tatopani. Needless to say it was a very rough trip. We stayed for two nights at Tatopani, to recover from the long trek over Thorong La Pass. The hot water springs were extremely hot but very relaxing. The weather was quite warm in Tatopani so I would head to the springs in the late afternoon just before dinner.Morning excursion to Narchyang waterfall at Tatopani. Annapurna Massif is in the background. It was a beautiful walk through the village, very peaceful, colourful houses & friendly locals.A Linge Ping is a traditional swing made from bamboo and constructed during the festival of Dashain. The shape of the swing is in the shape of Shiva Linga.Lots of steps and a steep climb to get to the waterfall. To be honest, walking up a steep hill wasn’t at the top of my priority list for the day. However, I was glad I did make the effort as the views were spectacular & the weather was fantastic.Narchyang waterfall (1,400m)
Tatopani (1,190m) to Ghorepani (2,810m) via Shikha
View from the rooftop of our guesthouse in Shikha (2,346m). Only 7.8km today but lots of steps so it took almost 4 hours.Plenty of time to explore the quiet village after lunchStill quite cold at night at Shikha village. Everyone is grateful at the guest houses when they fire up the wood and dung fueled stove and everyone huddles around it. I didn’t have any issues sleeping on the trek, even at high altitudes, averaging between 8 and 10 hours sleep.Water buffalo on the way to GhorepaniView of Dhaulagiri (8,167m)
Ghorepani (2,810m) & Poon Hill (3,210m)
So many steps on the trails around Ghorepani, absolute torture on my kneesThere were a lot more hotels and guest houses since I was last at Ghorepani, I hardly recognised the place. It is a very popular place & not that high in altitude, so there were lots of people on the trails around Ghorepani.Annapurna South (7,219m). Early morning start for sunrise at Poon Hill. We left the hotel at 5:15am. Lots of steps up to Poon Hill, 3,767 apparently. Just what my knees needed. As I had been trekking for 12 days I actually managed to pass some slower walkers, first time for everything.Poon Hill has changed a lot since I was last there in 1998. Back in those days it was just a natural hill with a few wooden benches. Early morning view of Dhaulagiri (8,167m).If I don’t look too happy in this photo it’s because I was feeling really unwell. I took some medication when I got up without eating any food, which I suspect was the issue.Another view of Annapurna South (7,219m)
Ghorepani (2,810m) to Tadapani (2,630m)
Prajwal, Glenn & Sandesh at GhorepaniThe trek from Ghorepani to Tadapani was 9.5km, which took about 5 hours, and lots of steps. Bizarre weather as we encountered thick fog early on. Great early morning views from TadapaniAnnapurna South (7,219m) viewed from TadapaniMachhapuchhare (6,993m) viewed from Tadapani. The mountain is also known as Fishtail. Its highest peak has never been officially climbed due to the impossibility of gaining a permit from the government of Nepal.
Tadapani to Pohhara via Ghandruk
We stopped for lunch at Ghandruk (2,012m), then trekked for another 45mins to meet up with the 4WD vehicle for the trip to Pokara.Phewa Lake – Pokara. I couldn’t believe how much Pokara had changed since 1998. Back then it was just a small town, now it is a massive place. Phewa Lake – Pokara. End of the trek. Only a couple of hours for shopping, then a farewell dinner with Prajwal and Sandesh. The next day was a long bumpy bus ride back to Kathmandu.
